Gertrude Stein wrote that “a rose is a rose is a rose.” Inspired by her musing (and alarmed at the high cost of the traditional Thanksgiving main course these days), we wanted to find out if the same could be said for turkeys.
For years, fans of the beloved Thanksgiving bird may have heard people refer to their pricey heritage turkeys as “life-altering.” But heritage birds are an investment: They can cost upward of $11 per pound compared with less than $2 per pound for a bargain bird. And if it’s brined and smothered in gravy anyway, how could anyone tell it apart from a regular grocery store bird? (Plus, you’ll be serving it alongside pumpkin, yams, and Brussels sprouts, right?)
In This Article
Best Turkeys: Editor’s Choice, Best Value, Polarizing Plateful, Super Pricey, Gamey Flavor, Hard to Swallow • How We Evaluated the Turkeys • Frequently Asked Questions
A Few Things We Love for Holiday Feasts
Best Chef's Knives
Best Cutting Boards for Your Kitchen
Dutch Oven Ratings
Instant Meat Thermometer Ratings
Toaster Oven Ratings
To find out whether heritage birds are worth the money and how much difference there is between several popular grocery store brand turkeys, several colleagues headed to the Consumer Reports labs to roast five birds and do a blind taste test.
Even the least tasty turkey can be tarted up into something palatable if you massage enough butter, herbs, and other seasonings into its flesh before cooking, and then drown it in savory gravy after. But our goal was to evaluate the taste of the meat to help home cooks start with the best-tasting bird at the best price. So we took a minimal approach in our preparation: no added fat, herbs, or seasoning, other than 2.5 teaspoons of kosher salt distributed over the skin and inside the cavity—the most basic recipe we found that was approved by Paul Hope, a classically trained chef who writes about appliances at CR.
All of the turkeys we tested are listed below, with their cost as of November 2022, and our feelings about each cooked turkey’s texture, flavor, and moisture.
The best way to cook a turkey, right this way.
Turkeys
Editor's Choice
365 by Whole Foods Market Organic Young Turkey
This bird flew to the top spot of the lists of most evaluators.
Prices from: $43.89
A Polarizing Plateful
Butterball Premium Turkey
Our tasters were divided over this turkey.
Prices from: $23.76
A Super Pricey Choice With Gamey Flavor
Willie Bird Fresh Free-Range Turkey
This famous turkey tasted gamey to some and was among the more appetizing.
Prices from: $169.95
A Bargain That Was a Little Hard to Swallow
Member's Mark All-Natural Whole Turkey
Evaluators struggled to find a kind word about this bird.
Prices from: $21.72
Best Value BIrd
Never Any! Young Turkey
Aldis' bargain bird at under $2 per pound was a palate pleaser for several tasters.
Prices from: $28.19
Editor’s Choice: 365 by Whole Foods Market Organic Turkey
Price per pound, at the time of publish: $2.99
The 365 by Whole Foods Market Organic Turkey was the second-most expensive turkey we tested—it flew to the top spot of the lists of most evaluators. And its virtues weren’t limited to its organic seal or its flavor: Social media editor Alexis Priester thought it was the prettiest turkey, too, which is important for that perfect Instagram moment. “White meat is generally the most appealing meat to look at (but least appealing in terms of flavor) . . . and this white meat was that turkey,” she said. Some tasters thought it was a little bland, but those who liked it really enjoyed it. Production Coordinator Aileen McCluskey thought both the “white and dark meat were moist . . . and had a really good, mild taste.”
Another evaluator thought this turkey was the most moist. At $2.99 a pound, it was the second-most expensive turkey.
15 Ways to Save Money on Your Feast
Check out our Thanksgiving food shopping tips.
Best Value Bird: Aldi Never Any! Young Turkey
Price per pound, at the time of publish: $1.89
It wasn’t the least expensive bird we tried (see Member’s Mark, below), but the Aldi Never Any! turkey is still a bargain at under $2 per pound, and many of our evaluators found it to be a palate pleaser. It also received two votes for the best-tasting bird. Several evaluators described the Aldi bird as gamey (one guessed it was a heritage bird), so this is a good choice for those who like their turkey on the gamey side and a bad choice for those who don’t. Althea Chang-Cook, an associate director of content, said it was “definitely more flavorful... and more tender, too.” It was her favorite. Priester also thought it tasted gamey but observed that it would stand up well to a “nice wet brine.”
A Polarizing Plateful: Butterball Premium
Price per pound, at the time of publish: $2.39
Our tasters were divided over the Butterball Premium turkey. It earned high marks from several evaluators but was dinged by just about as many. Digital design manager Melissa Plonchak described the white meat as “most flavorful, tasty, tender.” Evaluator and deputy editor Deb Silber said that it was “the most flavorful and had the most characteristic ‘turkey’ taste,” as well as the best texture. Priester loved the dark meat, which she said “wins for flavor. There’s something savory and salty going on there.” Chang-Cook, on the other hand, hated the Butterball, describing the taste as “chemical and unacceptable,” and content operations associate and evaluator Dawn Yancy found it “devoid of any flavor.”
A Super Pricey Choice With Gamey Flavor: Willie Bird Fresh Free-Range Turkey
Price per pound, at the time of publish: $11.22
This Willie Bird Fresh Free-Range Turkey costs almost 10 times as much as the least expensive brand in our evaluation. In theory, it should taste 10 times as good, right? Well, while it was tasty to some, not one evaluator picked it as their favorite overall bird. That doesn’t mean people didn’t like it: “This one was savory, pleasantly gamey, and flavorful,” Chang-Cook said. Another evaluator had a less-than-sparkly opinion: “Both types of meat were on the dry side and somewhat tough; the flavor was mild,” Silber said. Several evaluators also thought this one looked very appetizing.
A Bargain That Was a Little Hard to Swallow: Member's Mark All-Natural Whole Turkey
Price per pound, at the time of publication: $1.19
Turkey prices are at record highs, so finding a bird that costs less than the retail price per pound more than a decade ago is like hitting the jackpot—or is it? It was hard to find a kind word about the Member’s Mark All-Natural Whole Turkey among our evaluators. “This tastes cheap,” said Chang-Cook, demonstrating a palate that can discern price with precision. “It’s really bland, and nothing about it stands out.” Priester said the white meat looked dry and tasted even drier: “I needed a few gulps of water between bites.” She described the dark meat as having a “coppery, sort of gamey flavor.” Associate director of content operations and evaluator Nancy Crowfoot, who was no fan of this turkey, said that eating the white meat “felt like I was swallowing dust.”
Silber, who had the kindest words for this bird, called the flavor “good, but not remarkable.” Still, the Member’s Mark turkey was the least favorite of only one of our tasters and, with some good gravy and extra care not to overcook, could make a very affordable and enjoyable Thanksgiving feast.
How We Evaluated the Turkeys
Even the least tasty turkey can be tarted up into something palatable if you massage enough butter, herbs, and other seasonings into its flesh before cooking and drown it in savory gravy after. But our goal was to evaluate the taste of the meat to help home cooks start with the best-tasting bird at the best price. So we took a minimal approach in our preparation: no added fat, herbs, or seasoning, other than 2.5 teaspoons of kosher salt distributed over the skin and inside the cavity—the most basic recipe we found that was approved by Paul Hope, a classically trained chef who writes about appliances at CR.
Frequently Asked Questions
CR’s Amy Keating, a nutritionist and member of the food testing team, sets the record straight on common questions and misperceptions about our favorite holiday fowl. Read on and you can be the one with all the right answers to the inevitable turkey trivia at the table.
Is Turkey Good for You?
When it comes to protein sources, Keating says turkey is a good choice. “It is relatively heart-healthy because it’s low in saturated fat and sodium,” she says. “A 3-ounce serving naturally has only about 5 percent of the recommended daily limit for sodium, at least before you add your own salt and gravy.” So have your turkey and enjoy.
Why Does Turkey Make You Sleepy?
Turkey gets a bad rap as a coma-inducing food around the holidays, but Amy Keating, RD, a CR nutritionist and member of the food testing team, suggests that it’s not entirely warranted. “While turkey does contain tryptophan, an amino acid that, when ingested on its own, helps the body produce serotonin, that post-dinner malaise likely has more to do with other factors,” she says. These can include things like “the stress of the days leading up to the holiday, rapidly digested carbs like mashed potatoes and alcohol, and even just filling your stomach up even more than usual.”
Should You Wash Your Turkey?
This is a controversial topic, along with washing chicken. The fact is, “you can’t wash off bacteria with water,” Keating says, “and rinsing out the turkey risks splashing its juices all over the sink.” The safer and more hygienic way to clean the turkey, she says, is to “open the plastic wrap carefully and drain any liquid into the sink before discarding the wrapper. Pat the turkey dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Wash your hands and any utensils, using hot water and soap.”
Do the Pop-Up Timers in Some Turkeys Actually Work?
Those little red plastic dots in the breast of some turkeys may seem helpful, but the truth is, they are not sufficient on their own. “They measure the temperature in only one spot. Plus they aren’t accurate, according to our tests,” Keating says. You know it’s cooked and safe to eat when the temperature of all parts of the bird reaches 165°F, Keating says. Use an instant-read thermometer in the inner thigh, wing, and thickest part of the breast.